Nestled only a few hours northeast of central Tokyo, Japan's Tohoku region offers an extensive menu of natural, cultural and gastronomical attractions. From snow slopes featuring supreme powder to an enticing collection of onsen (hot spring), colourful cuisine and historical sites, the Tohoku area is rising as one of Japan's ideal travel destinations.
Getting there:
Major cities throughout the Tohoku region are easily accessible with air and train connections the most common methods of travel. International visitors are well served with English information (as well as Chinese and Korean).
TRAIN: travel times from Tokyo (JR Tohoku/Yamagata/Joetsu line) - Aomori 3hr 50min; Akita 3hr 50min; Morioka, 2hr 21min; Sendai 2hr; Yamagata 2hr 30min; Fukushima 1hr 30min;
Niigata 1hr 40min.
www.jreast.co.jp
AIR: travel times from Tokyo (JAL and ANA) - Aomori 1hr 10min; Misawa 1hr 10min;
Akita 1hr; Hanamaki 1hr 30min; Shonai 1hr.
www.jal.co.jp www.ana.co.jp
FLOATING ON EARTH Powder paradise for snow lovers
While Niseko has gained a winning reputation among many Australian skiers, the richness of Japan's ski slopes certainly goes beyond the limits of Hokkaido. Welcome to Tohoku's very own winter wonderland.
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| Zao is celebrated as the Mecca of Tohoku snow areas |
Zao: 'more than your average snowscape'
The visually enticing experience of Zao sets this resort apart from others. Standing across the mountain range in this part of Yamagata Prefecture are juhyo, or "snow monsters" - unique frosted, snow-laden trees looming on the vast landscape that are a global symbol of Yamagata's winter. View juhyo by day while carving up the resort's sensational runs, or observe them illuminated at night for an added sense of mystery. Comprising 26 courses over 305 ha of slopes and scenery, Zao is particularly ideal for skiers and snowboarders of beginner and intermediate levels. Complete the experience with a trip to one of the great onsen spots at the base of the mountain - the perfect way to relax after an intense day on the snow.
http://www.zao-machi.com
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| The snow transforms conifer trees into iced figures, or 'monsters'. See them in Zao, Hakkoda, and of course in Appi - known for its superb scenery |
Appi: 'longer runs and lighter powder'
Situated in Aomori Prefecture in the most northern part of Tohoku, the Appi snow resort boasts many attractions. With more than 45km of trails, an hourly lift capacity of 28,000 people (one of the largest in Japan) and powder snow - known as "aspirin snow" - that is reputedly even lighter than that of Hokkaido, Appi has great appeal. Courses cater for beginners through to advanced skiers, with a kids-only snow area for family vacationers. On winter evenings, the resort features stunning street illuminations. Appi is located about 200 minutes from Tokyo and like Tohoku's other snow spots, it is renowned for its breathtaking scenery and virtually untouched natural charm.
http://www.appi.co.jp
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| Enjoying the powder at Urabandai |
Bandai: 'extreme fun within arm's reach'
For those wanting first-class snow slopes with an edge, Bandai in Fukushima Prefecture is the place. Located within two hours of Tokyo, Bandai has several major resorts for skiers of all levels. On one side of the mountainous terrain you have ALTS Bandai - home to the the Nissan X-Trail Nippon Open Snowboard Championships 2008 to be held in February and March. As well as 29 runs stretching more than 30km there are six freestyle parks - the biggest offering in Asia - where the daredevil boarder can carve up some air. Moving to the backside of the region you find Urabandai, an area boasting super-sized ski runs, premium powder snow and stunning scenery.
http://www.alts.co.jp
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| The magnificent ski and snowboard area of Hakkoda |
Hakkoda: 'steep and deep'
For something more challenging than the average resort run, Hakkoda in Aomori Prefecture delivers. Unlike other resorts where snow is regularly groomed, Hakkoda's trails remain untouched for that adrenaline rush of skiing the unexpected. The name Hakkoda includes the character for the numeral "8" in reference to the eight mountains featuring runs as long as 10km. For those wanting a kick-start to the intensity on offer, Mount Akakura boasts the steepest trail, Bakuretsu Shamen, or "exploding slope". Hakkoda isn't only for the extreme as a number of groomed courses are also maintained to cater for everyone. However, for a taste of ultimate adventure, be sure to consult a qualified local as even the experienced skier will need professional guidance when facing this challenging terrain.
http://www.hakkodapowder.com
THE CULTURAL ENDEAVOUR Historic locations and unique experiences
These enlightening and entertaining options certainly capture the essence behind some of Japan's most celebrated traditions.
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| The famous Chusonji temple |
Chusonji temple: 'Japan's Zen paradise'
The small town of Hiraizumi in Iwate Prefecture hosts one of Japan's most important Buddhist sites. Chusonji temple, on the provisional list for World Heritage status, dates back to AD850 - when Hiraizumi prospered as the nation's northern-most cultural centre. The area once consisted of almost 40 buildings belonging to the Fujiwara clan, who ruled Japan at the time of original construction. Visitors to the temple grounds are encouraged to venture within the hondo (main hall), kyozo (sutra hall) and sankozo (treasure house), which contain more than 3000 precious exhibits. A highlight is the konjikido (golden hall) built in 1124, which showcases an incredible 5.5sqm Buddhist altar made from black lacquer-coated wood with gold leaf and mother-of-pearl inlay. For guests seeking a more spiritual insight into the daily lives of the monks, the temple's hands-on Zen experience is highly recommended. Amid the impeccable surroundings of the temple grounds, you will be guided through a one-hour process of "Zen essentials" including meditation rituals and the significance of attaining Zen.
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| Japan's largest display of chrysanthemums at the Nihonmatsu Kiku Ningyo event |
Nihonmatsu Kiku Ningyo: 'the nation's finest flora'
This fantastic chrysanthemum phenomenon is held throughout autumn within the grounds of Kasumigajo Castle in Nihonmatsu, Fukushima Prefecture. Part of this festival involves entrants from all over Japan competing for the winning chrysanthemum - that is, the chrysanthemum with the most flowers blooming from one stem. The 2007 winner showcased more than 1200 flowers beautifully arranged in an umbrella-shaped net to distinguish and support each flower. The festival also features some 130 kiku ningyo - life-size dolls decorated with chrysanthemums - depicting famous scenes from Japanese history. This inexpensive and vibrant stopover is made even more pleasant by the gentle floral scent that greets every festival visitor.
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| Visitors enjoy a traditional Japanese meal in historical Ouchijuku |
Ouchijuku: 'nostalgic Japan'
If you're curious for a glimpse of Edo-period Japan, then this small historical village in the southern Aizu county of Fukushima Prefecture is most definitely worth a visit. Featuring some 40 kayabuki-yane - or thatched-roof houses - Ouchijuku is preserved as it was hundreds of years before the industrialisation of Japan. Since being designated a national architecture preservation site in 1981, many traditional restaurants and souvenir shops have sprung up along the main road offering a range of local treats at low prices. On the second weekend of February, locals line the streets with snow lanterns illuminating the town - a truly magical sight to behold.
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| Visitors enjoy a traditional Japanese meal in historical Ouchijuku |
Shichiemon kiln: 'handicrafts with a local touch'
Although Japan has many villages famous for their earthenware art, the rural kiln located in Hirashimizu, Yamagata Prefecture, is a step above the rest. The clay here is made from stones and rocks from the nearby Chitose mountains mixed with glue-like seaweed to produce a ceramic base unique to Yamagata. Visitors can participate in daily workshops where they are guided through the pottery process and produce their very own masterpiece. The owner of this family-run kiln is quite a character herself and students of Japanese will be able to brush up on their Yamagata dialect in no time with the help of such warm-hearted and welcoming personalities. Apart from the workshops, a visit provides the opportunity to purchase an exquisitely crafted item from a selection sold only on location.
NATURAL INSTINCT Onsen hotspots and scenic specialties
Picturesque landscapes and stunning views throughout all four seasons, this onsen-packed region can be enjoyed any time of year.
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| Matsushima flourishes as one of the three best scenic views in Japan |
Matsushima: 'jewels of northern Japan'
The assortment of more than 260 pine-covered islands off the coast of Miyagi Prefecture is known as Matsushima (meaning "pine island"). Described as "the most beautiful place in Japan" by haiku master Basho (1644-1694), Matsushima is also officially regarded as one of Japan's top three scenic views (along with Miyajima and Amanohashidate). Each of the small islands has its own story, with most island names relating to their geography or appearance. For example Doran-jima translates as "Tobacco Case Island" for its abstract resemblance to one, while Kane-jima, or "Bell Island" is so named for the bell-like sound produced when waves crash against its four caves. No trip anywhere in Japan is complete without the taste of maccha (powdered green tea) and here guests can experience a traditional tea ceremony overlooking the beautiful bay of Matsushima at Kanrantei. For around 300 yen (A$3) visitors are given a brief insight into sado (tea ceremony) garnished with Japanese sweets - all while overlooking one of the most spectacular sights in the country. Truly an experience for all the senses.
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| Naruko is reputed as the place of origin of the kokeshi doll and for its high abundance of onsen |
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| Naruko is reputed as the place of origin of the kokeshi doll and for its high abundance of onsen |
Naruko Gorge: 'nature's autumn palette'
Miyagi Prefecture also features Naruko - home of the traditional Japanese kokeshi doll and the picturesque Naruko Gorge, famous for its spectacular autumn foliage. The vivid yellows, reds and oranges are in contrast to the arid landscape of Australia, making this a particularly breathtaking experience for the visitor. The gorge plunges 100m and runs for 2.5km along the Arao River. Its vast size can be appreciated from a large observation platform and a one-hour walking trail is accessible for the more adventurous. Numerous onsen are also found in the area, situated within a cluster of five communities known as the Naruko Hot Spring Villages. Naruko Gorge is an easy 20 minutes from the main Naruko Onsen station.
| Tohoku onsen guide:
'the hottest locations' |
| Niigata |
Yahiko Onsen
Tsukioka Onsen |
Miyagi |
Sakunami Onsen
Akiu Onsen |
| Fukushima |
Bandai Atami Onsen
Takayu Onsen
Iizaka Onsen
Ashinomiaki Onsen
Higashiyama Onsen |
Iwate |
Ichinoseki Onsen
Hanamaki Onsen
Sukawa Kogen Onsen |
| Yamagata |
Akayu Onsen
Zao Onsen
Togatta Onsen
Kamonomiya Onsen
Shirabu Onsen |
Akita |
Tamagawa Onsen
Nyuto Onsen
Tawako Plateau Onsen
Hachimantai Onsen
Matsukawa Onsen |
| Aomori |
Kuroishi Onsen
Oyu Onsen
Towadako Onsen
Asamushi Onsen
Owani Onsen
Hyakuzawa Onsen |
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| Naruko is reputed as the place of origin of the kokeshi doll and for its high abundance of onsen |
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CULNIARY DELIGHTS Fresh produce, Tohoku style
Traditional Japanese cuisine with an extra pinch of originality, these unique regional recipes are a real feast for the senses.
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| Iwate's renowned wanko soba |
Wanko-soba (buckwheat noodles):
Soba is a popular dish throughout Japan, but the difference between wanko-soba and its counterparts is not so much in the taste but the entertaining dining experience. The mouthful-serving size is much smaller than a standard bowl of noodles, and the average person should be able to gulp down up to 50 servings. Traditionally, the person serving you is meant to give out a loud cry each time they refill your bowl until you've finally had your fill. Keep in mind that the 2007 winner of the wanko-soba eating championships held annually in Morioka and Hanamaki plowed down a grand total of 340 bowls!
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| Succulent gyu-tan |
Gyu-tan (beef tongue):
The thought of eating a cow's tongue may not appeal to the average Australian, but they should think twice before declining gyu-tan. The Tohoku region produces some of the best beef in Japan and tongue comes in at the very top of this list. The texture is slightly chewy yet tender and the taste, incredible. Gyu-tan is a great barbecue addition complemented by a number of other dishes or simply enjoyed as a tasty treat on its own.
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| Inaniwa Udon, one of Japan's top three most famous udon styles |
Inaniwa Udon (Iwate-style wheat noodles):
Soothingly delicate in both taste and texture, these noodles are a lot thinner than your standard regional udon. Some critics claim that these noodles, said to have originated in the town of Inaniwa in the early 1600s, are the best in the country. Eaten both hot and cold, Inaniwa udon can be enjoyed with a variety of appetizing broths or simply on its own chilled, with a garnish of seaweed - known as zaru Inaniwa udon.
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| The characteristic taste of kaki is a must-try when visiting Matsushima |
Kaki (Japanese oyster):
Size certainly doesn't matter when it comes to quality and these smaller-than-average oysters boast an exceptional flavour. For seafood devotees, the voyage to Japan is far from complete without a visit to Matsushima Bay - particularly famous for its oyster farming and extensive assortment of restaurants specialising in this delicacy. Most menus offer a range of kaki dishes including the Japanese-style raw oyster (seasoned with soy sauce and vinegar), oyster hotpot, oyster tempura and deep-fried oyster (a breadcrumb-based batter heavier than the tempura option).
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| One of Tohoku's brands of Jizake, nanbu-bijin ('southern beauty') from Iwate |
Jizake (local sake):
High-quality rice is an essential ingredient in sake production, which is why one of the nation's leading producers of this white-grain staple also ranks as the leader in local liquor. Some regions are famed for their smooth and scentless varieties aimed at prolonging drinking enjoyment, whereas others specialise in types with a bold, narrow twang. For sake enthusiasts or simply for the curious challenger, there's bound to be a variety that satisfies any palate.