Cha-do, the Way of Tea
The ancient art of the tea ceremony

Of the many unique aspects of Japanese culture, the tea ceremony is perhaps one of the most fascinating and enduring. Centuries old in origin, the Way of Tea has come to hold an important place in Japan as a tradition that represents much of what makes the country so unique.

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The origins of cha-do
Tea was first introduced to Japan from China in the ninth century by a Buddhist monk named Eichu. It was drunk for health and enjoyment and black tea began to be cultivated locally. By the 12th century, when another monk Eisai returned from China, a new era of tea drinking dawned in Japan. Eisai introduced a powder of dried green tea leaves called matcha, a type still used in tea ceremonies today.

Owing to its origins, tea was first used in JapanÕs Buddhist monasteries as a medicine and as a way of staying awake during long periods of meditation. From the 13th century it gained popularity among the samurai warrior class and, together with the rising influence of Zen Buddhism, the act of drinking tea gradually became ritualised. However, the original tea ceremony was more focused on ostentatious displays of valuable utensils and rare teas and it was only with the influence of various Zen masters that the spiritual meaning of the ritual came to outweigh the material. By the 16th century, tea had become a common beverage across all tiers of society and the tea ceremony was firmly established in Japanese culture.

After the samurai class was abolished in the Meiji period (1868-1912), women came to be the main tea practitioners. The art of tea ceremony was regarded as an important skill for young women in order to learn graceful behaviour and aesthetic appreciation.

Sen no Rikyu and the tea ceremony
Perhaps no other figure has been more influential in the history of cha-do than Sen no Rikyu, a Zen tea master from the 16th century. Considered the founder of the three schools of tea ceremony (sansenke) in Japan, Rikyu was responsible for transforming the ceremony into the form we know today. At a time when using expensive Chinese pottery and grand teahouses were the fashion, Rikyu popularised a return to plain, rustic Japanese pottery and the humble setting of the small, bare tearoom. Rikyu stripped the tea ceremony of all non-essential elements, returning the focus to the beauty of simple things, a style that came to be called wabi-cha. The concept of wabi (desolation), regarded as the foundation of Japanese aesthetics, comes from Zen philosophy, which holds that material desolation forces the individual to seek spiritual wealth from within.

The tea ceremony
Put simply, the tea ceremony is the preparation and serving of green tea to guests in a formal setting. However, this seemingly basic ritual is actually an intricate artform that can take a lifetime to learn. In addition to the rules of the ceremony itself and knowledge of different teas, practitioners of the tea ceremony have to master skills and appreciation for various other traditional arts and crafts including calligraphy, poetry, art, flower arrangement, cooking and garden cultivation. Even to participate in a tea ceremony as a guest, one must know the proper etiquette including the phrases and gestures to use when accepting tea or food, and the general behaviour expected in a teahouse. The amount of study required to learn the art of the tea ceremony is one of the reasons this tradition is so prized in Japanese culture.

A full-length tea ceremony can take about four hours to complete, usually involving a light meal, two servings of tea and special Japanese sweets (wagashi) in between. There are various schools of tea ceremony in Japan, each with their own forms and rituals, but the following is a general guide:

* The host of the tea ceremony wears a kimono, while the guests usually wear either kimono or other formal attire. Traditionally, the ceremony is held in a tearoom or a teahouse, although they can also be held outside or at other venues. A typical tearoom is very small, usually only 4 1/2 tatami mats in size, with a hearth in the centre and decor that is deliberately plain and understated.

Minimal decoration may include a calligraphy scroll chosen in accordance with the season, or a simple flower arrangement that will feature in the alcove (tokonoma) of the room.

* When the guests are invited in, they remove their shoes as is customary when entering a tatami (bamboo mat) room. They kneel in order of social rank and will be served either a light meal, called cha-kaiseki, or a type of Japanese sweet.

* The host cleans all the utensils required for the ceremony in a ritualised manner. The tea is made using green tea powder, hot water and a whisk. Every gesture and the order in which they are performed are studied until they are exact.

* The bowl of tea is served to the guest of honour first, and bows are exchanged between the host and the guest. The guest must turn the bowl slightly so as not to drink from the front of it, take a sip and say the required phrase, before wiping the rim and passing it to the next guest with another bow. Although in some cases guests will have individual bowls, a communal bowl is meant to symbolise the forming of a bond between the guests.

* After the tea has been drunk, the host will clean the utensils again. The guests are then allowed to examine and admire each item, often handling them delicately with a special brocade cloth (fukusa) because many utensils are very valuable. At the end of the ceremony, the host will collect the utensils and the guests leave the tearoom.

* Throughout the ceremony, conversation is kept to a minimum in order to maintain the tranquil atmosphere. Rather than idle chatter, conversation is largely limited to appreciation of the setting, the utensils and the mood.

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The cha-do philosophy
Tea ceremony is about far more than simply drinking tea. The Way of Tea is essentially a spiritual concept that focuses on tranquility, selflessness and aesthetic appreciation. The strict ritualised nature of the ceremony is intended to focus peopleÕs minds wholly on the moment, and free them from the distractions of daily life. The plain setting of the tearoom and the lack of decoration accentuates the beauty of nature, be it the exquisiteness of a single blossom in a vase or the crackle of the fire on the hearth. Such an atmosphere, far removed from the material world of the everyday, is designed to create a humbling experience for both host and guests. Cha-do then, is a way of contemplating life through participation in ritual that is both artistic and spiritual.

Ironically, in recent times the emphasis on simplicity in tea ceremony is actually becoming increasingly expensive, as many of the old utensils popularised by Rikyu for their cheap and rustic nature have become prized antiques of tremendous value.

Cha-do in Japan today
Although tea is one of the most common beverages in Japan, it is not the case that Japanese people regularly participate in a formal tea ceremony. In fact, it is quite the opposite. Owning or having access to an authentic teahouse is a luxury known only to a few, as is the expertise required to host a proper tea ceremony, or even the opportunity to attend one. However, many people choose to take cha-do classes as a hobby, taking turns to play the role of host and guest, and the Way of Tea remains an important cultural underpinning of Japanese society. These days, tea ceremony is also taught in many places around the world. Even if most people may never participate in a formal tea ceremony, the ideals of selflessness, discipline and humility that they learn are valuable lessons for daily life.

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Glossary

Here is a list of some of the important utensils and other common terms associated with cha-do:

Chawan (tea bowl) - different styles and sizes of tea bowls are used depending on the season and the type of tea. Shallow bowls that cool the tea rapidly are used in summer, while deeper bowls that retain heat are preferred in winter. Tea bowls are handmade and imperfections and irregularities are considered to be attractive, rather than flaws.

Raku pottery - the style of pottery popularised by Rikyu and used to make the bowls used in tea ceremony. Raku is characterised by low-firing temperatures, lead glazes and the removal of items from the kiln while they are still red-hot. Items are transferred immediately to cold water or exposed to open air, and this rapid cooling process results in a unique finish.

Koicha/usucha - the names of the two main types of tea served in a tea ceremony. Koi means thick and usu(i) means thin, referring to the consistency of the green tea. Usually, koicha is served first followed by usucha, although in some ceremonies, only usucha will be served.

Cha-ire/natsume (tea caddy) - Koicha is stored in a cha-ire, which is a tall, thin ceramic container carried in a decorative bag. Natsume is used for usucha and is usually short and round with a flat lid and made of lacquered wood.

Chasen (whisk) - carved from bamboo, thick and thin whisks are used depending on the type of tea that is served in the tea ceremony. Due to their important purpose, they are considered to be very valuable and when no longer usable, are burned in a ritual at a local temple.

Cha-kaiseki - kaiseki refers to a meal consisting of many small dishes and is known for its beautiful presentation. Ingredients and servingware are chosen according to the season and the dishes, often featuring garnishes of real leaves and flowers, are very carefully arranged. Cha-kaiseki (tea kaiseki) typically includes a soup, two main dishes and three side dishes, and consists mainly of vegetables and fish.

Sansenke - the three main schools of tea ceremony in Japan, comprising Urasenke, Omotosenke and Mushanokojisenke. Developed by RikyuÕs descendants, each school is subtly different in its philosophy and practice. Of the three, Urasenke is the most well-known around the world, while Mushanokojisenke is largely limited to Japan.