Marjon and I outside Salt Tokyo

Loving life outside
the comfort zone

Mary Parsch

Tokyo is a sensational explosion of crazy fashions, amazing foods, stunning shrines and a shopping heaven. But for my boyfriend and I, coming to live in this vibrant city represented a blind dive into the unknown. Our initial anxieties were quickly eased by Tokyo's mix of warm, welcoming people and wondrous experiences.

Having studied a little Japanese at school, I had long dreamed of visiting Japan. So this year, when my boyfriend Marjon Olguera was offered a chef's position at the new Salt Tokyo restaurant, we jumped at the chance.

Marjon had been working in celebrity restaurateur Luke Mangan's Sydney restaurants Salt, Bistro Lulu and Glass Brasserie. Helping to pioneer Luke's Tokyo venture was an incredible opportunity. Salt has found a gap in the Tokyo market, where most people associate "Australian cuisine" with an enormous plate of steak and ribs at the Outback Steakhouse (actually an American franchise). Salt represents a modern Australian fine-dining experience unique in Tokyo. The menu always has fresh ingredients from Australia alongside high-quality Japanese produce, complemented by Australia's best wines.

Before leaving, I applied to a language school so I too would have a working visa and a job in Tokyo. I had no teaching experience but most schools only require a university degree. You also need patience and a good attitude. On a given day you could be teaching English to anyone from a young child to a businessman to a university student. Essentially it's easy - I can't believe I'm paid to chat all day long!

Marjon and I share a spacious inner-city apartment with a couple of other Salt chefs. It's quite luxurious by Tokyo standards, where most people live in smaller, more affordable apartments further away from the city centre.

I had never visited a country where I didn't speak the language so I didn't know what to expect. But from the moment I stepped off the plane, the reality was a lot less scary than I had imagined. For Marjon, having had no exposure to Japanese culture, it was more of a shock and at times a bit overwhelming. Standing in the middle of Shibuya shopping district, you can feel as though you're about to be swallowed by the crowd. Having said that, Marjon is carefree and has adapted quickly - he's already upstaging me with his Japanese slang.

Despite Tokyo's reputation as a high-tech, fast-paced city, everyone is down to earth and eager to help. Most people speak some English and whether it's basic or advanced, they apologise for not knowing more (it's me who should apologise - we are in Japan after all!). One of my goals here is to pick up conversational Japanese. Most local councils provide lessons for gaijin (foreigners) to help them settle in.

To escape the bustle of Tokyo it's easy to hop on a train and enter a different world. One of our first trips was to an onsen (hot spring) in Niigata. It was toward the end of cherry blossom season so the scenery was still speckled with pink and there was snow on the mountains. Our Ryokan-style hotel had tatami rooms and we wore yukata, ate the most amazing foods and wandered around Japanese gardens in our geta sandals - it couldn't have been more traditional if we tried! Another adventure was battling the elements to climb Mt Fuji - we didn't get to the top but we'll try again.

We live within walking distance of one of the world's largest fish markets. Tsukiji markets serve the best sushi I've ever tasted and it's very affordable. I was surprised at how far your money goes in Japan; I think the cost of living in Sydney is a lot higher. I also feel extremely safe in Tokyo by day or night - it's rare to find yourself alone in a city of more than 12 million.

I would recommend a working holiday in Japan to anyone. It's so rewarding, especially when you're young and trying to find your feet outside your comfort zone.

Mary Parsch is a graphic designer by occupation who worked for Time Inc. in Sydney. She studied Japanese at Glenaeon Rudolf Steiner School, which she attended from Years 5 to 12.